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November, 2012

Buffalo Trace made quite a splash with its 2012 Antique Collection, when two of the whiskeys in that collection scored the top two slots in the 2013 edition of Jim Murray's The Whiskey Bible. The top whiskey of 2012 in Murray's book was the Thomas Handy Rye, reviewed for us by S.D. Peters within days of its release. Now The Whiskey Reviewer turns its attnetion to Murray's #2 whiskey, the William Larue Weller Wheated Bourbon. Murray gave both whiskeys a score of 97.5 with the wheated bourbon edging the rye "by the smallest of fractions." The 2012 installment of Weller bourbon could very easily have been the top whiskey of the year.


Given the outstanding quality of the 2012 Weller, a word about the man it is named after is in order. Born in 1825, Weller was a Kentucky distiller who made one key innovation in bourbon-making: he hit upon the idea of substituting wheat for rye, introducing the very first wheated bourbon in 1849. Why it took so long for someone in Kentucky to hit upon this idea I cannot say, as wheat is hardly a strange grain for whiskey-making, and none other than George Washington was making wheat whiskey as early as 1797.


The Bourbon


This version of WIlliam Larue Weller is an uncut, unfiltered 12 year old whiskey, adged on the 2nd and 4th floors in Buffalo Trace's warehouses I and P, and bottled at 123.4 proof (61.7% abv). This is a bit lower on alochol content than some prvious Weller limited editions, already a much-laureled and heavily decorated series.


In the glass, the bourbon has a mid-bodied, dark and coppery amber cooring. It's a pleasure just to look at it, as the liquid catched the light in a particularly crisp way. Taking in the nose, I found it to be syrupy with a hefty slug of vanilla, albeit with a slight bite from the high alcohol content. The scent is pleasant, but deceptively unremarkable.


The flavor is much more complex, with the strong, dark vanilla and moderately caramel sweetness balance very evenly by oak and leather notes. There is also a slight, tart, fruitiness there, and an even slighter preseence of pepper. Despite the delicate nature of the lighter notes, non of the aspects of this bourbon need to be chased. Everything is right there, making the taste of this wheated bourbon as complex as it is balanced and mellow. The finish is long and quite warm, starting with on a soft oaky note and trailing off into a mild alcoholic burn, enhancing the warming effect.


The high alochol content comes across in places, but never so much that it gives an unpleasant bite. For a cask strength bourbon, the William Larue Weller 2012 is surpringly mellow, so much so that you might never know the alcohol content was so high. With its natureal complexity and balance, and generally pleasant and friendly nature, this bourbon is just find without water, and I reccoment taking it neat.


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Last Updated on November, 2012
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